By a quirk of history and with their strong naval tradition, Colombia own a large sea area north of their country in the Caribbean, offshore from Costa Rica and Nicaragua and all the way up to within 150 miles of Jamaica, and they take the responsibility seriously. They welcome yachts and are generally friendly and helpful.

There is the major resort island of San Andres, think small Cancun or Acapulco, 400 miles from Colombia and only 100 miles off Nicaragua.

And then there is the quiet backwater of Providencia, 80 miles further north, where the locals speak English left over from their pirate history and where the anchorage is flat calm in the strongest trade winds.

Further north still Serrana bank, Serrinilla bank and Roncador all have small islands and permanent marine detachments. You may stop and be welcome but they are not the easiest anchorages and are swept by the trade winds.

There is also, 30 miles south of San Andres, Cayos de Albuquerque, an easy stop off before or after Panama. Again manned by marines, they swam out to my boat and boarded by climbing the anchor chain, just for the fun of it. Formalities consist of paying your respects to the CO and signing the visitors book.

Providencia

I visited Providencia on my Sundeer 56 Scraatch in 2008 on my way to Panama and again this year, 2020. Little has changed. Same small town, same agent, same shallow anchorage.

Change is coming but the locals like it how it is so no great resorts to come… the only visitor accommodation is small guest houses.

• Population 5200, visitors on island as of yesterday 620.
• Currency, Columbia Peso @ 3300 to the US Dollar.
• ATM on side of admin building next to dock.

The whole island is a dramatic old volcano rim to the east protecting the harbor which is the filled-in crater. It is also protected by offshore reefs to the east and for 10 miles to the north.

Approach and Anchoring:

Approach is from the west near the northern end of the island, entry from the NW and over the drop off N of a post marker on the edge of the reefs. Once in over the drop off the channel is now buoyed and lit, IALA B red to starboard entering, all the way to the yacht anchorage off the main jetty in 2.5m depth, soft sandy/grass. The lagoon is very shallow in parts so watch navigation instructions and channels. There is a southern entrance but I have not tried it yet.

Ahead as you anchor is the floating pedestrian bridge that connects the two sections of the island. Town to the right, tourist guest houses etc. to the left.

Coming soon, contracts signed, is a less bashed up bridge, dredging of the main channel to 5m and an improved town Jetty.

The dinghy dock is at the base of the main pier, left hand side, a wooden dock alongside the town square. Locals are all helpful and will direct you as needed, or often take you…

Formalities:

New Procedure due to Corona Virus, as of 7 Feb 2020. Yachts are now required to go alongside a concrete dock for medical checks before anyone leaves the boat or starts to check in. On arrival you should contact one of the two local agents on ch 16 VHF, Mr Bush and ‘Alex’ who will make the necessary arrangements.

Once clear, they agent will arrange for appointments with immigration, port and island admin. Passports go off to the airport for stamping and come back after an hour resting on the balcony of Mr Bush’s shop. Entry is only by using these agents, fee is $US 180. Entry to Columbia is normally given for 3 months.

If coming from elsewhere in the country you only need to notify the agent of your arrival for the island admin count.

Check out is as easy but give the agent 24hrs notice to get your departure cards.

Ashore:

There are 3 or 4 reasonable food shops, a couple or three restaurants and other small shops for a town/island of 5000 people.

There is a good 10 mile or so road round the island. Golf carts @$50 a full day or motor bikes for half that.

At the far bottom end of the island is Machineal beach with a local rum bar and restaurant for a laid back day out.

For the energetic there are all those volcanic crags to climb……..

Brian Simm
6 Feb 2020
Yacht Scraatch, Sundeer 56 heading for third Panama canal passage

See here for a complete list of reports from Brian Simm.

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The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not reflect the view of Noonsite.com or World Cruising Club.